The North-Eastern states of India have unexplored natural beauty and rich cultural diversity. So we decided to visit Sikkim (only brother of 7 sisters) in this summer vacation. Sikkim has 4 districts East, West, South, and North. North Sikkim is the largest district area wise and it is most beautiful also. Its panoramic views, natural beauty will make you surrender in front of nature.

When I started searching for information and tourist points of Sikkim, I found that Gurudongmar lake, one of the highest altitude lakes of the world, is situated there. I was very keen to visit this place. The problem was not much information was available that we can go there with kids safely. I was confident that we can do it but our parents and relatives were saying that it will be too adventurous to go with kids. I traveled with my 7 and 11-year-old sons to Gurudongmar and the trip was awesome. Oxygen is surely less at higher altitudes but kids adjust better to weather conditions. But remember that every kid or person is different and their body reacts differently.

We decided to travel Sikkim on 26 April 2017  and kept total 10 days for this entire trip. We planned to visit Gurudongmar Lake, Yumthang valley the main tourist spots of North Sikkim. We kept 3D/2N for this trip.Let’s start the trip now….

Gurudongmar refers to the Buddhist guru Padmasambhava and Sikh guru Guru Nanak visit to this hidden land of North Sikkim. It is holy, sacred, with majestic views. Gurudongmar is the highest lake in India at the altitude of 17,800 ft(5430 m) with civilian permit otherwise it is in 2nd place. Tso-Lhamu Lake is at 18,100 ft and the highest lake in India. To visit Tso-Lhamu you have to get restricted area permit(as per information is given on the internet), but when we asked for the permit, we were told that civilians are not allowed due to border security reasons.

First, you have to reach Gangtok by taking the train to Siliguri or flight to Bagdogra and after that, you have to hire a cab and it will take 3 hours road journey to reach Gangtok. We had booked a cab for entire 9 days with our tour operator and you need an Inner line permit to visit Gurudongmar Lake and Nathula-pass as these are India-China border areas and security is really high. If you are DIY kind of person then keep minimum 4  passport size photographs and Identity cards of all the members who are traveling with you to make permit and police pass from offices.

We reached Gangtok on 26Th night at 8 p.m, we all were tired but permit for Gurudongmar was already issued for 28Th. It is advisable that not to go to Gurudongmar or any higher altitude place in a single stretch. Get yourself well acclimatized and due to these reasons, we decided to stay at night in Chaten which is at 9000 ft altitude. We left Gangtok on next day at 10.30 am for Chaten, which was approx 100 km from Gangtok via Chungthang. Our journey started with going through a market area where kids were walking to reach school, ladies were dressed in long skirts or in their traditional attire with bright colored lips, completely suiting to their fair skin and many tourists were roaming around. After passing Gangtok city and going upside, the views are very scenic as all around is Eastern -Himalayan Range which is densely populated with various types of flora, fauna, and pine forest. The soil is highly fertile and approximately every 800-meter there is a waterfall. Water flowing from the top in midst of mountains in pristine white color felt like gallons of milk flowing with rhythmic sound.

Both sides of the road have lots of white or/and colorful flags, so we asked our driver about its significance and he told us that white flags are hoisted when someone dies at home and they are generally 108 in numbers. While colored flags are hoisted after worship of local deity for the wellbeing, peace, and prosperity of family members and home. Don’t confuse them with Colorful prayer flags as they are tied horizontally while these are called “loomthang” or “dhancha” and are hoisted on wooden poles.

Lots of waterfalls are playing rhapsody with nature on the way. Due to heavy snowfall and water flow, landslides are quite often in North Sikkim. So roads are in their worst possible condition and as you go upside, roads literally don’t exist. So how are you going to travel, unless you are not highly passionate about it? To see and feel the nature at its peak. Push your comfort zone and get on the road without thinking what is going to happen next and give the hint of adventure to yourself and your kids too.

Due to 2012 earthquake and landslides, road infrastructure and bridges- connectivity was affected. Therefore after traveling little distances, you will find hardworking locals working with BRO(Border Road Organisation) all over in Sikkim.

With Teesta river flowing in full intensity on one side on the entire journey and crossing multiple small iron bridges decorated with colorful prayer flags swaying with the wind enhances the beauty of your way. As you passed through, officers from check posts Mangan and Toong both will check your permits for further travel. We reached Chungthang, which is approx 81 k.m from Gangtok, at 3 p.m and had lunch there. It is a small town with lots of shops and small restaurants over there. 

From Chungthang to Chaten was 1-hour drive, we reached our stay and it was surrounded 360 degrees by Himalayan range. The view will make you speechless as word ‘beautiful’ will not do proper justice to nature. In Eastern Himalayas, the sun rises and sets early, so at 5 p.m it was becoming dark and fog and mist were covering all the mountains and valley like a cozy blanket. We were watching all these views and our souls were lost in the beauty and silence of nature, till the visibility was gone completely. We stayed at Chaten but many tourists were staying at Lachen as there are lots of homestays and hotels are there but prior booking is required.

Rule of Thumb @Higher Altitude:-

1. Stay hydrated, drink lots of warm water due to chilling temperatures.
2. Get acclimatized, instead of going directly at higher altitudes.
3. Walk for a while.
4. Only 4 + kids are allowed on the trip of Gurudongmar and foreigners are not permitted due to border security.
5. Never sleep at very high altitudes as told by locals.
6. Eat popcorn as it keeps warm.
7. 50+ are not advisable if they are not fit.

After following all these rules we left for Gurudongmar in the morning at 4:30 a.m, because any vehicle has to return around 11:30 a.m last or before due to very harsh weather conditions. Many tourists left early also at 2:00 a.m or 3:00 a.m.

Distance from our stay at Chaten to the lake was 70 km but due to unpaved roads, it took 4.5 hours or more. But the ride and experience is worth in a lifetime and can’t be explained verbally. After 24 km, Lachen check post came and we showed our permit and passes and then passing through Kalep a (village on the way) we saw pink -mauve flowers on the side of the road, adding beautiful color to this canvas of nature. The Eastern Himalaya brights up at 4:00 a.m, humming of birds and fresh air will entice you to wake up early. After sunrise, snow capped mountains were turning Golden, as the sun rays were touching them and their peaks were glowing from far, spreading different shades in the sky.

I also started capturing the beauty with my phone-camera but soon realized that every frame is like a painting and nature has created colorful canvases to enjoy and absorb this surreal experience. It can’t be captured with the camera, the grandeur of nature is at its peak, it can be felt only.

At 12700 ft  Thangu check post will come, here you can see snow covered trees and entire scene reminds you of Christmas. Lots of small shops are there and some have toilet facility, otherwise, the army has made toilets for tourist at some check post. We also bought popcorns as it keeps us warm. After Thangu only grasslands are there where you can see lots of yak, horses grazing. At 15700 ft last check post-Giagang comes, where you have to submit the permit as they keep track of tourist and vehicles. It is the gateway to plateau region. No human habitation is there except Indian ARMY and once again we were full of respect towards the dedication of Army in such harsh weather conditions to protect our nation.

Last 14 km stretch to Gurudongmar is very nice as the road is in very good condition (after traveling too much without the road, when all the muscles deep inside ur body are stretched ). Now barren mountains and Snow glaciers start.Views are mesmerizing, the temperature is very low( -6 degrees on our trip), and it’s very windy so proper layering is required otherwise you can be down with a severe headache. For the lake, you have to take a slight turn to right  500 meters on dirt road steep upside.

Finally, we reached at Gurudongmar at 9:15 a.m, and I felt victorious @17,800 ft, as everyone was discouraging us to visit this place with kids. Now we were captivated by the views of divine, angelic, sacred lake. It is a freshwater lake with blue-greenish water, and lake bed can be seen due to crystal clear water. It is said that Guru Nanak Sahib had touched the lake so that it is never completely frozen in winters to solve the water problem of locals. A similar story exists for Buddhist guru also. This lake is surrounded and fed by glaciers of the north of Mount Kangcheng Yao range connected with Tibetan plateau. Gurudongmar Lake is the main source of Tso-Lhamu Lake and together they form lifeline of Sikkim, Teesta river. Indo-China border is very near to Tso-Lhamu lake.

We stayed for half an hour there. You can watch lake from upside or you can come down around 25 steps to touch or take the holy water of this lake. It is said that encircling the lake will fulfill your wishes, especially for a childless couple. Buddhists and Sikhs take the water of this sacred lake like Hindus do with Ganga Jal(water of Ganga river).

We went down the stairs and touched the holy water but while returning we felt little breathlessness, but  don’t get panic if you feel the effects of less oxygen, take some rest, drink water and slowly come back, we did the same and came back  in our bolero and started our returning journey enthralled by the views of Lake, plateau’s and glaciers .

While returning snowflakes started and kids were very excited but our driver was worried as it will be difficult for him to drive. So we rushed to our stay at Chaten as the weather at higher altitudes gets worse by time. On the way, we had seen rice, cardamom farms and bamboo huts and wooden huts. We enjoyed the views of the valley on our way and clicked lots of pics.

We reached chaten at 1:30 had lunch and left for Lachung at 3 p.m to enjoy Yumthang valley and zero point.

Important Points:-

1. Need of Inner line permit and police pass to visit this place.

2. Take copies of passport size photo and Identity card for all the members of the family, whoever is traveling.

3. The kid should be 4+ age and avoid 50+ if he/she is not medically fit.

4. Get acclimatized well and stay hydrated due to high altitudes.

5. Check your cab for fog light as it is very necessary at mountains due to heavy fog and DRIVE SLOW ON THE CURVES of the road.

6. No connectivity for smartphones @higher altitudes, BSNL will work at some places.

Enjoy the trip and nature’s beauty at its peak…..